Tuxedo LR-26-PAD: a 6,000 lb low-rise you can actually drive a low car onto

The number that decides whether a low-rise lift is any use to you is not its capacity. It is how tall the thing is when it is flat on the floor — because that is the ramp a sports car, a lowered saloon or a modern EV with a flat underbody has to climb before any of the rest of the specification matters. The LR-26-PAD sits at a 3″ drive-over height, and that is the honest reason to choose it. At 6,000 lbs of capacity it will take everything most shops see; at 3″ it will take the cars that get turned away from a taller pad lift.

It is a pad-style low-rise, which means the vehicle sits on rubber-topped pads at its lift points rather than on full-length runways. That is a deliberate trade: you lose the drive-on convenience of a four-post and gain complete access to all four wheels and the sills, which is why this lift lives in tyre and wheel bays. The power unit is dolly-mounted, so the lift is not a permanent installation — it can be rolled out of the way when the bay is needed for something else. An automatic safety lock engages as it rises rather than waiting to be set.

Will It Fit?

There is no ceiling calculation with a low-rise, which removes the usual reason these purchases go wrong. What matters is floor space and the geometry of your vehicles:

• Drive-over height. 3″ at the pad. Measure the lowest point of the car you most want to lift — a front lip, an exhaust, a battery tray — and compare it to that, not to the ramp angle.
• Lifting height. 26″ as supplied, or 30″ using the height adapters. That is working height for wheels, brakes and sills, not standing height. If you need to walk underneath a car, this is the wrong category of lift.
• Floor length. 86″ overall.
• Floor width. 73″ overall, with 35″ between the runways and each runway 19″ wide. The gap between them is what your vehicle straddles, so check it against a wide track before assuming.
• Pad length. 52″, which governs how far apart the lift points on your vehicles can sit.
• Power. 115V, 15 Amp, single phase. A domestic-grade circuit, but it should be a dedicated one and it needs to reach wherever the dolly ends up.

Checking the floor, the door and the circuit before ordering is the buyer's responsibility. A lift that does not fit the room is not a warranty matter, and this one weighs 955 lbs in its crate — it is not something you shuffle around afterwards on a whim.

Why 3″ is the specification that earns its place

Most low-rise scissor lifts land somewhere between four and six inches when collapsed, and every inch above three narrows the list of cars you can serve. It is not only sports cars: air-suspended saloons parked overnight, EVs with sealed underfloor battery packs, and anything with an aftermarket exhaust all sit lower than the brochure suggests. A shop that has to turn away a booked job because the car will not climb the pads has lost more than the price of the ticket. Pair that with the rubber spacer blocks supplied with the lift and you have a machine that adapts to the vehicle rather than demanding the vehicle adapt to it.

Portable in a way that means something

Because the pump and controls travel on a dolly, this lift is not tied to a wall or a fixed cable run. A single technician can bring it into a bay, do a set of wheels and brakes, and take it back out — which is exactly how a busy shop gets a fifth lift out of a four-bay building. It also makes the LR-26-PAD a realistic home-garage purchase, because the garage still has to be a garage at the end of the day.

The optional frame-lifting kit

The one limitation of a pad lift is that it holds the vehicle by its lift points, which is not always where you want it held. Tuxedo publishes an optional MR6K-38-SUV frame-lifting arrangement for exactly that case — taller vehicles and frame-lift work that the standard pads do not suit. It is not included and it is not required for normal wheel, tyre and brake service, but if you routinely lift SUVs and light trucks by the frame it is the accessory to ask us about before you order, not after.

Perfect For

• Tyre and wheel shops — the intended job. All four corners exposed, the car at a sensible height, and the lift out of the way afterwards.
• Performance and specialist workshops where the cars are low and a conventional pad lift simply cannot be driven onto.
• Independent general shops that want a fast, portable second lift for brake and wheel work without giving up a bay to it permanently.
• Home garages and enthusiasts with a good floor, a standard single-phase circuit, and a car that has to be parked in the same space at the end of the day.

What's in the Box

What the current product data actually lists as included: the lift, the dolly-mounted power unit, the automatic safety lock mechanism and rubber spacer blocks. The MR6K-38-SUV frame-lifting option described above is sold separately and is not in the crate. Nothing else has been added to that list — if an accessory is not named here, assume it is not included and ask us.

Specifications

Certification, stated plainly

The product data we hold for this lift makes no third-party safety-listing claim, and we are not going to imply one on its behalf. A manufacturer's own declaration that a machine meets a standard is not the same document as an independent listing issued by a testing body after examination, and it does not substitute for one. Some insurers, some fleet and dealership policies and some local jurisdictions require that independent listing for lifting equipment used commercially. If that describes your situation, confirm the requirement with your insurer or inspector first, and ask us in writing what documentation ships with this lift before you place the order.

Shipping and delivery

This lift moves as freight to the lower 48 states, and the freight cost is quoted live at checkout for your address rather than printed here where it would go stale. At 955 lbs crated, you need a way to get it off the truck: a forklift, a dock, or a planned lift with enough people and the right equipment. No unloading arrangement of your own? Ask us to send it to a freight terminal for you to collect. Deliveries to residential addresses carry a residential fee. Inspect the crate before you sign for it and write any damage on the bill of lading at the time — a clear signature is very difficult to argue with later. Warehouse pickup is available; the locations are listed further down this page.

Warranty

The warranty that applies is published on our warranty claims page. We have not printed a coverage period in this description, because that term is not stated in the product data we hold for this model, and an unsourced number next to the word warranty is worse than no number at all. If the coverage period is part of your decision, ask us in writing before you order and we will confirm the current terms. Whatever they turn out to be, one rule applies: do not disassemble anything before a claim is opened. A stripped power unit or a dismantled cylinder usually ends the claim regardless of how obvious the original fault was. Photograph it, call us, let the claim start first.